In the market there are different cosmetic products for facial care depending on the type of skin and possible skin conditions such as acne , atopic dermatitis or melasma . But, how to choose the most suitable cream for each skin? Montserrat Salleras, head of the Dermatology Department of the Sagrat Cor University Hospital in Barcelona, explains that beyond the type, the skin must be treated according to the state in which it is found. “The skin is not always dry or oily, it depends on many factors: environmental, hormonal, the place where we live or age,” said Salleras in a meeting on personalized cosmetics held in Madrid and organized by Universkin, a brand specializing in distribution ofcustom serum .
“The skin is changing throughout life and needs different care, so I insist that we do not talk about types but skin states that change throughout life and even, within a year, the skin He has different needs, “said Selleras.
In this same day, Petra Vega, president of the Spanish Society of Aesthetic Medicine (SEME), showed that the cosmetic routine serves for patients to become aware of skin care through the adoption of hygienic measures and avoiding habits unhealthy like sunbathing without sunscreen or smoking. “When in aesthetic medicine we started to treat the facial area, we saw that the quality of the skin comes first, since the final result of an aesthetic procedure will depend on the starting point of the skin itself,” said Vega.
What are the most used assets in cosmetics?
Selleras believes that modern cosmetics of the twentieth century has contributed to respond to problems such as skin dehydration, protection from ultraviolet radiation and infrared rays and external embellishment with products that improve porosity and stains, something very significant since pigmentation changes are one of the main reasons for consultation. “All this has been achieved thanks to the five main principles most used in cosmetics: acids, retinoids, vitamins , antioxidants and depigmenting agents “. This dermatologist detailed the properties of each of them:
Acids : are active that have a keratolytic effect (exfoliating) to eliminate the outermost cells of the skin, providing luminosity and improving the porosity of the skin. One of the most used is glycolic acid.
Retinoids : are ingredients derived from vitamin A and are very powerful because they can eliminate fine wrinkles, improve the appearance of the skin, acne marks and spots.
Vitamins: the best known is vitamin C , with antioxidant properties and an important role in the production of collagen.
Antioxidants: its function is to reverse the natural oxidation that occurs in the body, although Selleras recognizes that these assets do not have as much scientific evidence as the rest.
Depigmenting: there are medical and cosmetic use and its function is to mitigate and eliminate the spots associated with natural aging and that produced by the action of the sun.
From this group of assets and the different states of the skin, Universkin has developed a customized serum that allows its design according to the needs of each person. Currently, this product can only be prescribed by doctors and its distribution is limited to dermatological and aesthetic clinics. For the preparation of this cosmetic, the following assets associated with specific skin problems have been chosen: